JS 95 pts / WA 95 pts
Deep and complex, yet delicate, this is an exceptionally concentrated and ripe Pinot Bianco. But it has a cool side, too, and that helps balance the toast and dried-pear character on the mid-palate before the dramatic, mineral freshness kicks in at the intense, long finish. Just beginning a long life. Drink or hold. JS
If I were stranded on a deserted island with just one bottle of wine of my choosing, it very well might be Cantina Terlano's Vorberg. The 2018 Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Riserva Vorberg is a case study in creaminess and texture, although the bouquet holds back just a tad, with a bit of stone fruit. That subtle shyness is a known characteristic of the grape. The wine is as steady and clear-minded as one of those high-wire daredevils, navigating a tightrope between two Dolomite mountain peaks. This expression is salty and firm and with so much energy, and yet it is also relaxed with a touch of softness to the finish. WA
